tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47457568707478384292024-03-14T05:36:48.385-04:00Palenque Pool ProjectA team from Penn State University excavating a pool located in the Picota Group of Palenque, one of the best known Classic Maya centers. This project is funded by Penn State's Hamer Center for Community Design and the Department of Anthropology, and National Geographic's Waitt Foundation Grant Program.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18088931935005802050noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-26380511751667647482015-07-09T15:51:00.000-04:002015-07-09T15:51:20.067-04:00Jungle River Road: Crossing the Río de Pasión in Sayaxché, Guatemala<div>
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As we approach a total of 5000 miles of driving, most of which are coming from our ventures through México, Guatemala, and Belize, we have mastered the art of navigating around bumps in the road…literally. Since crossing the border on the first of June, we have seen everything from potholes and <a href="http://palenquepoolproject.blogspot.com/2015/07/slowing-down-social-inequality-role-of.html">hundreds of topes</a>, to roads washed away by landslides, to straight cliffside drop-offs devoid of any sort of guardrail or safety precaution. Driving through Guatemala on the way to Belize, we were faced a new obstacle.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQDOZWN6smCdAX5RTYb5f9oc_iE6tasWZQga7UH9_DN6MPBOHR-aiyQerrRFW_nALX13By1INBf24mEwfcO0OS-okDMwCgEvz5mFape8xoSBy5VnbLdpigugixyNjAucK1zUJBWF_tGWw/s1600/DSC_2367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQDOZWN6smCdAX5RTYb5f9oc_iE6tasWZQga7UH9_DN6MPBOHR-aiyQerrRFW_nALX13By1INBf24mEwfcO0OS-okDMwCgEvz5mFape8xoSBy5VnbLdpigugixyNjAucK1zUJBWF_tGWw/s320/DSC_2367.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for the ferry at the Río de Pasión waterfront.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We snaked around the streets of <a href="https://www.google.com.bz/maps/place/Sayaxch%C3%A9,+Guatemala/@16.5262081,-90.1888275,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x858ab2db7a0aaf8f:0xdc7b60015296968">Sayaxché</a>, a town in central Guatemala, and suddenly there was no road. Instead, a line of traffic awaited a small barge carrying a full load of cars, trucks, and people to cross the Río de Pasión and unload so they could board and continue on their way. The <a href="http://gopro.com/">GoPro</a> video above shows our ride through the town, with a brief, yet imperative pit stop, and our experience riding on the ferry across the river.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18088931935005802050noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-72724271602809580152015-07-05T14:11:00.000-04:002015-07-06T08:11:26.342-04:00Slowing down social inequality: the role of speed bumps in Chiapas<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1-o67YpI_M7qbajs-Af1Cuhab51syczKvSRrs62Sp6dCodC_hNVW6_waxN-a0371W-_gV6Rf_j-euw_zot7OT6PjaF_MYskIq5pD2PsYdlfGpwjkeBaRzfRU6DLZVzTqhXjZiSrl368/s1600/DSC_2078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1-o67YpI_M7qbajs-Af1Cuhab51syczKvSRrs62Sp6dCodC_hNVW6_waxN-a0371W-_gV6Rf_j-euw_zot7OT6PjaF_MYskIq5pD2PsYdlfGpwjkeBaRzfRU6DLZVzTqhXjZiSrl368/s320/DSC_2078.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A stray dog sleeps on a speed bump, or <i>tope.</i></td></tr>
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In the United States, a speed bump
is a nuisance, which has the sole purpose of forcing cars to decelerate at
locations that seem reasonably justifiable to do so. However in Mexico, speed
bumps, known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">topes</i>, may have a
more social component because they give oppressed people a voice. This
phenomenon is widespread in the highlands of Chiapas.<o:p></o:p></div>
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For many years, the Maya of Chiapas
have been marginalized and forced to plant their crops on patchy hillsides, equating
to heavy erosion and high yields. This subjugation reached its boiling point in
1994 when the <a href="http://www.britannica.com/topic/Zapatista-National-Liberation-Army"><span style="color: windowtext;">Zapatista Army of National Liberation</span></a>
(EZLN), headed by former professor <a href="http://www.britannica.com/biography/Rafael-Guillen-Vicente"><span style="color: windowtext;">Subcomandante Marcos</span></a>, declared war on the
Mexican government.<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>After making
strong statements by capturing several cities across the state and freeing
every prisoner incarcerated in the prison of San Cristóbal de las Casas, it was
quite evident the Maya were ready to take a stand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This movement was the first time that the
indigenous people of Chiapas were able to attempt to create ripples of change
and stand up to their perceived oppressors.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
Twenty years later, this culture
has continued its strong-willed attitude in order to grasp onto perhaps its
only chance to have direct control. Families and business owners in the small
Maya towns that line the sides of roads throughout the region construct <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">topes </i>to stop cars from zooming past. <o:p></o:p></div>
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But there is much more to this
story, for the motivation does not simply stem from the level of safety that is
achieved as a result of a speed bump. There are resentful intentions fueling
this construction, at least in part, due to the feelings evoked by the
Zapatista Movement. Although this may seem like an insignificant victory from a
“big-picture” perspective, it is pivotal for these people because it is a
situation they are able to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">absolutely</i>
control. <span style="line-height: 150%;">Moreover, they take advantage of
the commercial opportunity presented as cars slow down. </span><i style="line-height: 150%;">Topes </i><span style="line-height: 150%;">are often built right outside of tiny shops selling sodas and
snacks to travelers.</span><span style="line-height: 150%;"> </span><span style="line-height: 150%;">The passionately
indignant nature of some modern Maya stems from the centuries of oppression
imposed on them.</span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A scenic view on the way to San Cristóbal de las Casas.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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On the drive from Palenque to San
Cristobal de las Casas there are an enormous amount of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">topes</i>. After driving this road once already this season, we decided
to perform a miniature study on our second trip. Joining us this time was Dr.
Christopher Duffy, a hydrologist from the Penn State College of Engineering.
Behind his painstakingly comprehensive recording, we were able to determine
there are 295 <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">topes </i>along this
stretch of highway. Additionally, we have developed a thorough typology in
order to to categorize and label each individual type of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tope</i>. For example, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">flat-toppers</i>
are ones that have a width similar to that of a crosswalk, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mountaintops </i>are narrower with a more dramatic incline, and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">vibradores </i>(the name used on signs
alongside the road) are several small speed bumps in a row to slow the car over
a greater distance. These are the three of the types we experienced with the
greatest frequency throughout the drive. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
The next steps are to take
measurements such as width and height and also to examine the geographic
locations of the various types of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">topes</i>.
This would mean we would be able to solidify the categories we established in
the typology by utilizing measurement-based parameters. Further, creating a
geospatial distribution map of these speed bumps would aid in determining which
villages have the highest incidence of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tope
</i>construction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From there, the
inhabitants who built the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">topes </i>would
be interviewed to determine their motive for doing so.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">As is evident in this preliminary research, the
actions taken to combat social inequality can take many different and sometimes
unexpected forms. When a person from a non-oppressed social group is observing
this type of rebellion, it is difficult to understand the yearning to have a
voice that exploited people experience. This study could shed light on the oppression
that the modern Maya of highland Chiapas are still enduring today. </span><!--EndFragment-->Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18088931935005802050noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-78465590694511875252015-06-25T14:19:00.000-04:002015-06-25T15:28:55.509-04:00Vacuuming the pool: The Bomba Method<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Times;"><span style="color: white;">The ability to improvise
and dramatically change plans on the fly is paramount when performing any type
of excavation. This is especially true when a method not considered to be part
of the dogma of archaeology is necessary for excavation. When X-ray diffraction
(XRD) test results revealed the mineral composition of the sand in the Picota
Pool was overwhelmingly dolomite limestone, it was apparent this sand was
indeed natural and from Palenque. A combination of carbon dioxide outgassing
and constant spring water movement left an approximate 10 cm layer of powdered
dolomite. With this in mind, we are now able to vacuum the sand out of the pool
in order to expose the floor and actually understand its makeup.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">At the beginning of the
2014 season, it was our intention to block the drains connecting the pool to
the aqueduct and remove the water in order to perform wet excavations rather
than doing it underwater. Once we figured out the Maya of Palenque dug into the
bedrock to expose the water table, we realized our semi-trash pump method would
not work. Some strategizing and adaptation then led us to scooping out mud and
debris, which then exposed this sand-like substance. Left untouched for a year,
the jungle had taken over and covered much of the white powder that lined the
pool.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeOOhSkbn7qfhMbYq7eFdqOqhbPgm_bbu2rbnvI80fluYTJDzq-DFIVOeNDh368wKzROSFn11NsvFpEziYZ7H0mx3EW1SijmmsABx4Or_YdowlGIs7QGG1Rz0OXbVvBfPYPAHNO_2M9Kc/s1600/DSC_1960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeOOhSkbn7qfhMbYq7eFdqOqhbPgm_bbu2rbnvI80fluYTJDzq-DFIVOeNDh368wKzROSFn11NsvFpEziYZ7H0mx3EW1SijmmsABx4Or_YdowlGIs7QGG1Rz0OXbVvBfPYPAHNO_2M9Kc/s320/DSC_1960.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="color: white;">In 2015, we once again had to get creative. The “Bomba Method” (<i>Bomba</i> is Spanish for “pump”) has become our main source for discovery this season. After being quite discouraged over what seemed like a waste of eighty pounds of equipment in 2014, it was rather gratifying to be able to put it use this year.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMnUTkchCEdw2KMxigl1n4eeuwZsd1_2aoOSvg2GP3rAol9VlqPOyGHyhmPfaUh1BJL9AUfka4vPkWf5pkcr_dBuUkDFuNcw_WfnbAmAxojIQnNmmI2n4EO2IRDFwQbkXYNAU_kGYSWvM/s1600/GOPR0078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMnUTkchCEdw2KMxigl1n4eeuwZsd1_2aoOSvg2GP3rAol9VlqPOyGHyhmPfaUh1BJL9AUfka4vPkWf5pkcr_dBuUkDFuNcw_WfnbAmAxojIQnNmmI2n4EO2IRDFwQbkXYNAU_kGYSWvM/s320/GOPR0078.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="color: white;">The first challenge was to hold the violently vibrating pump in place. Our Maya workers, Andrés and Ricardo, who come from the village of Naranjo, threw together a platform for the pump to sit on and tied it to a tree just uphill. As is shown in the video, the person operating the pump stirs up the sand and then pauses, guiding it into the hose. When debris builds up on the hose nozzle, the operator must then brush it off in order to avoid clogging. This unique method has helped us determine that the floor was simply bedrock weathered down to small rock fragments. It goes to show that the indoctrinated technique is not always the clear-cut solution. As we have found out, if you want to answer research questions in the field, it is necessary to rely heavily on innovation and resourcefulness.</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18088931935005802050noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-28689715513926798232015-06-23T16:58:00.000-04:002015-06-23T16:59:23.859-04:00Dipping our toes into the pool of ethnography<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
After a season of intense excavation
and consolidation of the main pool in Palenque’s Picota Group in 2014,
investigations have since widened to include ethnographic research in the
modern Maya village of Chamula in Mexico’s southern most state of Chiapas. Ethnography
is a technique normally used in the cultural side of anthropology to describe
and better understand a modern culture. Located on the northern edge of San
Cristóbal de las Casas, this community is home to three constructed pools that
appear to be very similar to those found just 110 km north in ancient Maya site
of Palenque. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMxYEQf6fLhHQB2KE7JVl069Ps_9rqOuc26wuy_ooaK9F37nz9i4pjPlqoaDZxgn_5EpYvmHc6mQaNf4XqeJAFQg0Y0HBxIjYl_x9Ao38mf3hIDPHXRZPnBN4FmGex6fJM9TiNzwxk_hk/s1600/DSC_1410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMxYEQf6fLhHQB2KE7JVl069Ps_9rqOuc26wuy_ooaK9F37nz9i4pjPlqoaDZxgn_5EpYvmHc6mQaNf4XqeJAFQg0Y0HBxIjYl_x9Ao38mf3hIDPHXRZPnBN4FmGex6fJM9TiNzwxk_hk/s320/DSC_1410.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Spring of San Juan in Chamula.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
The first is the Spring of San Juan,
which is the largest and most complex of the three pools. The upper section of
this system is used only on May 3<sup>rd</sup> during the Día de la Santa Cruz.
The Spring of San Pedro is a smaller and simpler water feature. The people of
Chamula regularly come here to gather holy water for ceremonial use. Finally,
the third pool, Ya’al Jtotik, is a compound-like area with many drying racks
and sitting areas for people to gather and perform ceremonies together. All
three of the springs have associated architectural features, such as shrines,
staircases, and ledges on which patrons are able to stand while washing
clothing.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chamulan women wash clothes in the lower pool at the Spring of San Juan.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
The pools in Palenque and Chamula are
remarkably similar and unique to Mesoamerica. The project’s goal is to both
learn more about the significance of the pools to the everyday life of
Chamulans, as well as invite a few of the elders from the Waterhole Committee
of Chamula to Palenque so they can see the ancient Maya pools firsthand. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kirk and Chip take a look at the Spring of San Pedro.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
In early June we met with the
president of the Potable Water Committee in Chamula. When told about the water
management system in Palenque with the three pools along the stream, he seemed
very unsurprised. In a very matter-of-fact tone, he stated that flowing water through
limestone naturally forms waterholes along its edges. That being said, after
seeing photos of the Palenque pools, their beauty impressed both he and his
family. We concluded that the people of Chamula seem to view the pools as
natural features of the landscape, therefore obvious elements of their everyday
lives. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soap collects in the Ya'al Jtotik pool.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
After spending a few days
photographing the pools and exploring the area around Chamula, we received
permission from the local government to create a m<span style="line-height: 150%;">ap of each of the pools. This
data will later be incorporated into ArcGIS to create a more solidified version
of the map. Having a tangible representation of our work in this area will be
essential for future investigations. There is still much data to be obtained
through ethnographic interviews with the people of Chamula, but it is vital to
the project that we were able to create maps of the three major pools and
familiarize ourselves with many local officials.</span><br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
Crucial to the success of this
project are the contributions of Walter “Chip” Morris, an American
anthropologist who first came to Chiapas in 1972. Over the years he was able to
master not only Spanish, but also the Maya languages of Tzotzil, Tzeltal, and
Ch’ol. San Cristóbal de las Casas became his permanent home upon receiving the
prestigious MacArthur Genius Award in 1983. Walking around Chamula with Chip
could almost be compared to being a part of a rock star’s entourage. After many
years of interacting with the people of the village, virtually every Chamulan
man, woman, and child knows him.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
Since the success of ethnographic
research hinges on communication, it would be very difficult to obtain any data
when both parties are speaking Spanish, their second language. Chip’s ability
to speak Tzotzil, the language used in Chamula, and to also know certain local
taboos and traditions had incalculable value and enabled us to explain our
goals to anyone who was wondering.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
One of the most unique experiences
was walking through the San Juan Chamula Church, which can be found at the
center of the town. To preface, I want to stress this is a recognized Catholic
church. My very limited experience with Catholic churches in the United States
made me assume that all churches have pews on which people sit and listen to
the sermon presented by the priest. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The San Juan Chamula Church.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
It was certainly a shock to walk
into this edifice where there was nobody sitting in pews listening to someone
preach from the pulpit. Instead, individual family units knelt in their
respective zones they had claimed upon clearing away a section of pine needles
that cover the entire floor of the church, which is devoid of any seating areas.
Families make appointments to come to the church to have a ceremony for any
kind of personal reason, be it a sickness in the family, starting a new job, or
building a new house, just to name a few instances. To perform these
ceremonies, people bring items including but not limited to candles, soda,
water, chickens to be sacrificed, and pox (pronounced “posh”), a strong
alcoholic beverage native to the area. In order for the prayer to be complete,
everything that is brought must be consumed; the candles have to burn until they
are simply a pile of wax, the chicken has to be sacrificed, and all the beverages
must be finished.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A pox distillery.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
Chip always makes sure he has a bag
full of snacks to hand out to the children of the families who are undoubtedly
fussy and bored. Some aspects of childhood remain the same across cultures as
this is much like how young children sitting through mass in a church in the
United States would also act. Almost like a Chamulan Santa Claus, he wanders
around to find particularly distraught kids and pulls a bag of popcorn out of
his satchel of goodies that makes their faces light up with excitement. It serves
as a perfect icebreaker to facilitate casual conversation during the family’s
ceremony. It should be noted that although these prayers are very personal,
there is a sort of community-feel inside the walls of the Church of San Juan.
They are elated when you offer to aid in the completion of the family’s
offerings, whether it be the Coca-Cola, pox, or water. It is not considered to
be freeloading for the sake of intoxication, but rather helping consume the
gifts they have prepared for their prayer. This is the way in which outsiders
can actually contribute to the family’s ceremony. Upon exiting the church,
having drunk a fair amount of pox and still in a state of minor shock from
seeing a chicken sacrificed, we were startled as a roaring firework soared from
the plaza in front of the church. It is common for fireworks to be set off at
the completion of the family’s ceremony, a fact of which I quickly became
aware.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panela, an unrefined cane sugar, is the ingredient of pox.</td></tr>
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<!--StartFragment--><span style="font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">All of these experiences, although very
different from what many Americans would consider to be “normal,” demonstrated
to me that at the core of our existence, we truly are all quite similar. Sure,
there is a wide range of traditions that make us unique from our neighbors, but
they are all done with the same goals in mind. Family is a universally
important entity. Alcohol translates into any culture, no matter how remote or
traditional. The fiery desire to learn and grow burns deep in every person in
every culture across the globe. There are certain aspects that collectively
give us our identity of “human.” Anyone who believes that people halfway across
the globe are <i>vastly </i>different needs
to see for themselves in order to understand. It all goes back to the idea of
the necessity to step out of your comfort zone to expand the level of
consciousness and mature as a human. Anthropology is a marvelous facilitator to
move towards achieving such a lofty feat. While studying humans you realize you
are essentially looking in a mirror and gazing at yourself in a different
culture. Recognizing similarity is the key to understanding humanity, and
learning differences is the fundamental way to move </span><span style="line-height: 150%;">toward human acceptance.</span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18088931935005802050noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-20284171755647454462015-06-19T10:23:00.000-04:002015-06-19T10:23:29.358-04:00Pennsylvania to Palenque: 3400 miles and counting<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq6CS2l97r0JkoeixswwRhW-aNg5mj5N1buRYMhoIF-vLlVd-sikfhCXlHxQiH-LzaUPd8rpJzNG5McyCAl3ZqoAquXpHzEuv1S40Ahc7fMSY_AfGrUterHIE8F0lV_DXYu3qGu8NajTc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-06-16+at+12.55.10+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq6CS2l97r0JkoeixswwRhW-aNg5mj5N1buRYMhoIF-vLlVd-sikfhCXlHxQiH-LzaUPd8rpJzNG5McyCAl3ZqoAquXpHzEuv1S40Ahc7fMSY_AfGrUterHIE8F0lV_DXYu3qGu8NajTc/s320/Screen+Shot+2015-06-16+at+12.55.10+PM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;">Stepping into the unknown enables
you to learn about yourself as well as the environment and people around you. As
anthropologists, we constantly seek to take that step out of our comfort zones
to attempt to explain why people do the things they do, how certain rituals
have remained the same for hundreds if not thousands of years, and how others
may change rather rapidly. Everything from religious ceremonies to architecture
helps paint the complete picture of humanity.</span></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
The longest trip I had ever taken
in a car was on the Pacific Coast Highway from Los Angeles to San Francisco.
The drive took about eight hours and clocked in at a total of about 400 miles.
Also, apart from flying to Fort Lauderdale, Florida a few times, Washington
D.C. was the deepest into the South I had ventured. Needless to say, I was in
for a serious dose of culture shock on the 3400-mile drive to Palenque. The
unknown was staring me in the face, and it was time for me to dive in headfirst.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 1: Mechanicsburg, PA to Farragut, TN<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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After what seemed like years of
talking about what was to come this summer in Palenque, the day of departure
had finally arrived. I anxiously paced around the house like a mad man awaiting
Kirk’s arrival. This would be the first time my parents had the opportunity to
meet the person with whom they were letting their son once again go to Mexico.
After many hugs and tears (mostly from my mom) we were finally on the road.
Nine hours later we passed through Knoxville, Tennessee and decided to call it
a day and stop at a Super 8 in the suburb of Farragut.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 2: Farragut, TN to New Orleans, LA<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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As we left the motel around 8 AM we
thought our destination was Hattiesburg, Mississippi to stay in a cabin with
Cary Hudson, lead singer of the alt-country band <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOvFWGNFXcM">Blue Mountain</a> and good
friend of Kirk. A text from Cary informed us we would actually be meeting up in
New Orleans. It was only a few extra hours of travel, a price well worth paying
to have the chance to spend the night in New Orleans.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Along the way I told my dad, a
barbeque connoisseur and self-appointed pit master, we were passing through
Birmingham, Alabama, to which he responded we have to go to <a href="http://www.dreamlandbbq.com/AboutUs.aspx">Dreamland Bar-B-Que</a>. This
was more than a recommendation; it was a requirement. We took his advice and
ordered a “full slab” of ribs to split, a task we thought would be easily
manageable. Five minutes later a plate slams down on the table with twelve
hunks of meat so large they must have come from some sort of mutant,
dinosaur-sized pig. Once the plate was cleaned, with even the sauce sopped up
with the four pieces of white bread that come on the side, we limped out of the
restaurant to continue on the road. We had met our match, and a car ride full
of meat sweats was our punishment. We learned you do not underestimate John
“Big Daddy” Bishop. The motto of Dreamland is, “Ain’t nothing like ‘em
nowhere!” and now I can say with confidence, truer words have never been
spoken.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzqasEPm2xrEVdLeFWmtNdIVhermIVLLE3wgdB3I9jTX-zk_Viei2ZtshCjLpPkOBI2G5jv-IHFvZiFbYx0sqhAgV19ZdqulVv5UFyq0iYmsVf8hf_icxnEq3jWkUdh520DEwpOqHLYns/s1600/IMG_2493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzqasEPm2xrEVdLeFWmtNdIVhermIVLLE3wgdB3I9jTX-zk_Viei2ZtshCjLpPkOBI2G5jv-IHFvZiFbYx0sqhAgV19ZdqulVv5UFyq0iYmsVf8hf_icxnEq3jWkUdh520DEwpOqHLYns/s320/IMG_2493.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost finished with the full slab.</td></tr>
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Four hours later we were crossing
the colossal Lake Pontchartrain to enter New Orleans. We tuned the radio to <a href="http://www.wwoz.org/">WWOZ</a> as we rolled into the jazz capital of the
world. Driving through the streets it was evident there was a Friday night in
the Big Easy. We were welcomed with open arms by Cary, who was actually in the
middle of moving to a house right next door to his old one. He took us to <a href="http://www.frankieandjohnnys.net/">Frankie & Johnny’s</a> for some rice
and beans with fried chicken for dinner, and <a href="http://morningcallcoffeestand.com/">Morning Call Coffee Stand</a> for beignets
and coffee in the morning before we were back on the road again. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Just one night was enough to
demonstrate to me that there are beautiful, selfless people in New Orleans.
Even though it was an inconvenient time for Cary and he had just gotten back
from Hattiesburg earlier that day, he welcomed us and showed us around the
city. That is the mantra of everyone in New Orleans. They are there for you to
give you a place to stay and to show you a good time, and they are especially skilled
at the latter. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 3: New Orleans, LA to Dayton, TX<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
On the way to Kirk’s hometown of
Dayton, Texas, I repeatedly saw signs for “Boudin and Cracklins.” Being the
“yankee” that I am, I had never even heard either of these words, so we decided
to pull into <a href="http://www.donsspecialtymeats.com/">Don’s Specialty Meats</a>
to get a lesson in Southern foods. I was in a state of meat-induced sensory
overload, much like what had transpired just 24 hours earlier at Dreamland. It
turns out that cracklins are just fried pork skins with a cooler name than pork
rinds. I opted to hold off on trying that one. Boudin, on the other hand, is a special
type of pork sausage that has rice and various spices mixed in with the meat.
We decided to try some boudin balls, which is the meat simply deep fried in a
ball rather than put into a sausage casing. Despite the heartburn that soon
followed, it was a delicious mid-afternoon snack that you cannot find anywhere
up north.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Then, about two hours later
everything was suddenly bigger; flags were larger, highways had eighteen lanes,
pickup trucks had monster truck tires. All of this could mean only one thing:
we must be in Texas. We arrived at the French’s house and were welcomed with
the same Southern hospitality we experienced in New Orleans. The table was lined
with an array of snacks as Mrs. French put the finishing touches on the venison
roast we would later eat for dinner. After some nice relaxation, it was time to
eat. A sea of mashed potatoes, biscuits, and butter-soaked carrots lay in front
of me as I prepare myself for yet another gorging. Not long after dinner we
decided to turn in early and get some much needed sleep. That night as I fell
asleep looking at several images of John Wayne hung around the room, Mr.
French’s NRA membership certificate, and a photo of him posing with then-governor
of Texas, George W. Bush, all I could think was, “I certainly am not in
Pennsylvania anymore.”<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 4: Dayton, TX to Laredo, TX<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
Before we set off for the border,
Mrs. French made a breakfast suitable for a king to fuel us through the final
part of the journey on the United States side. We said our goodbyes and went on
our way to Laredo. ZZ Top’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sA0sZnaDIDo">Tres Hombres</a> </i>was
wailing from the speakers as we flew down the perfectly straight Texas highway.
Once we finished the album for the fourth time, we decided to switch it up with
some Stevie Ray Vaughn, Willie Nelson, Robert Earl Keen, and other Texas
greats. Six hours of cruising later, we arrived at the Super 8 in Laredo, just spitting
distance away from the border-crossing center.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 5: Laredo, TX to San Luis Potosi, San Luis Potosi, México<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
In order to avoid what was sure to
be a nightmare border-crossing experience, we left the motel around 6:30 AM to
catch the border officials while they are in a decent state of mind and also to
avoid having to wait in a long, unrelenting line of cars. Being inexperienced
at driving through the border, I was surprised that the former was even an
issue. If the border official has been dealing with people’s excuses, “special”
circumstances, or other problems all day, it certainly would take a toll. He or
she may not want to let you through because you said something that didn’t sit
well with them. If this is the case, a “real” reason will be found to halt you
at the border. After a series of questions testing our Spanish at such an early
hour, we were let through into Nuevo Laredo without even having to open our
doors. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
Another detail of which I was
unaware is that there is a second checkpoint about 20 km after the border. As
we pulled up to this check, you could feel the tension in the car. Surely, we
were going to be all but cavity searched this time; almost as if the border-crossing
gods had to give us hell this time for such an easy first cross. We handed the
official our passports and the visa for the vehicle. He seemed jovial, a trait
which I was not expecting to see from a person in his position. We were asked a
few questions, he cracked a joke about how a beautiful señorita could improve Kirk’s
Spanish, and then let us go on our way. For a process that normally takes at
least three hours ended up lasting only about 45 minutes. Welcome to Northern
Mexico.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgILP-PCSawbP_h0O6LJZBYK3dQnM9B3yFHWbhgs5X_IFV05OgEta9Wp9tnxmfLVjpQyZOxeRM1XFhaJRGThLtCmWgE154Z7c3SgXtIlbA6YSOVw6-FcPmtslEvoFVJwWJ4HgJC229NNl8/s1600/DSC_0953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgILP-PCSawbP_h0O6LJZBYK3dQnM9B3yFHWbhgs5X_IFV05OgEta9Wp9tnxmfLVjpQyZOxeRM1XFhaJRGThLtCmWgE154Z7c3SgXtIlbA6YSOVw6-FcPmtslEvoFVJwWJ4HgJC229NNl8/s320/DSC_0953.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stopped along the side of the road for "karne asada."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
On the way through the barren
landscape, we stopped at a shack set up along the side of the road, of which
there are hundreds, for some carne asada. A few hours later we arrived in the
beautiful city of San Luis Potosi. We were lucky to have a breathtaking vantage
point from our 9<sup>th</sup> story room in the aptly named Hotel Panorama.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi39P_pzrr1y7Pb3BvTUhioSLsmG9nT-LkKpaapCbrx0eJ00r1GMQn1iM6uaa866Dx0YEu3VcBCFUdLH6UHwDzpqFJZYqweqdNVY8bqx1dc3He5rCoFmEvYEmGjN1qRRjHBYCus-kMMJYc/s1600/DSC_0954.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi39P_pzrr1y7Pb3BvTUhioSLsmG9nT-LkKpaapCbrx0eJ00r1GMQn1iM6uaa866Dx0YEu3VcBCFUdLH6UHwDzpqFJZYqweqdNVY8bqx1dc3He5rCoFmEvYEmGjN1qRRjHBYCus-kMMJYc/s320/DSC_0954.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from Hotel Panorama of San Luis Potosi.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 6: San Luis Potosi, San Luis Potosi to Teotihuacán, Estado de
México<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
Navigation in Mexico is very
different from navigation in the United States. When driving from Harrisburg to
State College, one would take I-81 North to 322 West because, logically, the
destination is northwest of the starting point. However, in Mexico there are no
cardinal directions associated with interstate highways, and sometimes you will
reach an exit and the road you are currently on splits and goes two different
directions. This can certainly cause some issues when navigating without a GPS,
a skill that is all but lost throughout most of the United States. Since
Teotihuacan is northeast of Mexico City, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">theoretically
</i>we would not have to pass through this enormous metropolis.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
Theory does not always equate to
outcome, and we ended up in gridlock traffic in Mexico City. An hour and a half
later we had moved no more than a mile we approached a line of police officers
that were simply letting a certain number of cars through to bottleneck the
traffic. Now that we knew for a fact we were undeniably lost in the middle of
Mexico City, the largest city in Mexico and the 9<sup>th</sup> largest in the
world. We stopped at a Wal-Mart to find some Wi-Fi and figure out an escape
route. It was then we realized we were on the southwest end of the city, the
complete opposite side from Teotihuacan. After several minutes of stressful and
unsuccessful navigation, we were now in the center of the city. Finally, we saw
the road we knew headed straight for the highway we needed. We could see the
light at the end of the tunnel!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
That light was once again blocked
when two police officers on motorcycles pulled up alongside and signaled for us
to pull over. One of the officers strolled up to the window and informed us
that since we do not have a front license plate, he was going to have to tow
us. We tried several times to explain there is no front plate requirement in
Pennsylvania, but all of our pleas were met with, “Sorry, there is nothing I
can do because our cameras in the city read the front license plate.” He even
had the rulebook to show us. Then, suddenly there was something he could do for
us, or rather something we could do for him. They wanted $300 U.S. dollars,
which equates to about $4600 Mexican pesos. We had to tell them we did not have
that much money, but we did have $2500 pesos ($160 U.S.). They had been
schmoozing us by calling us “amigos,” offering cigarettes and gum, and giving directions
to Teotihuacán. They knew we would pay to get out of the situation, and they
were right. We were on our way and finally made it to Teotihuacán where we
printed and laminated a photo of the back license plate to duct tape to the
front of the vehicle to avoid any further problems. What was supposed to be our
shortest day of driving (about four hours) but instead turned into a nine-hour
fiasco. Welcome to Central Mexico.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 7: Teotihuacán, Estado de México<o:p></o:p></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emilio Mantillo Corona's <i>tinacal</i>, where pulque is produced.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For the first time on this trip
down, we were staying in the same location for a whole day. Ken Hirth, another
Penn State archaeologist, is in Teotihuacán with a team of students looking at
obsidian tool production, so we had someone familiar with whom we could spend
some time. While visiting a part of the site currently being excavated, Kirk
asked the workers where he could find a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tinacal,
</i>which is the location where the alcoholic drink <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pulque</i> is produced. The motivation behind this inquiry is a class that
Kirk is developing to teach at Penn State in the near future on the
anthropology of alcohol. Intentionally fermenting grains or fruits to produce
an alcoholic substance has been a staple in human societies since around 7000
B.C. when the ancient Chinese people of Jiahu began to make beer out of rice.
Alcohol has been the centerpiece of many social and religious gatherings or
celebrations all over the world, and the area surrounding Teotihuacán is the
motherland of pulque.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmcCMzUUIS5a8a5g8g56q0bYKvo2pzOvrrCZYMpbQu_lrSjUoos1onkS8A7PDOAjuSYgrmpg4Ktq6DJhVkhIcnzqRNUZAH4npyyHRkWZ2ERqFzzTzeWYqrPChiwda4bj-sNadIkx0sWc/s1600/DSC_1057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmcCMzUUIS5a8a5g8g56q0bYKvo2pzOvrrCZYMpbQu_lrSjUoos1onkS8A7PDOAjuSYgrmpg4Ktq6DJhVkhIcnzqRNUZAH4npyyHRkWZ2ERqFzzTzeWYqrPChiwda4bj-sNadIkx0sWc/s320/DSC_1057.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting some free samples.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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A worker who knew exactly where one
was accompanied us in the car to direct us up the mountain to a very remote <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tinacal</i>. There, we met Emilio Montillo Corona
who was the farmer who owned the property. The land was covered with maguey
cacti. Under a makeshift shack that stood about five feet high were two large
barrels bearing roughly 400 liters of fermenting pulque. The original
substance, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">aguamiel</i>,<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>is removed from the maguey plant and
fermented in barrels to create <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">pulque</i>.
The drink has a thick, viscous consistency and very low alcohol content. Emilio
was generous enough to demonstrate some of the tools and processes associated
with the retrieval of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">aguamiel </i>such
as a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">raspador</i>,<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> </i>used to scrape out the inside of the castrated maguey and the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">acocote</i>, a hollowed gourd used to siphon
the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">aguamiel </i>out of the maguey. We
walked away from Emilio’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tinacal </i>with
8 liters of pulque to share with Dr. Hirth and his team, but we would soon find
out that pulque continuously ferments, transforming the semi-sweet beverage
into a sour liquid.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkpEqn4LvB1RCv6BxrLIIf_wsNsBANb4xqyZK-cnGKeZE6ZW62S2MjjzoGHsMW-TTAxJBOz9Kc9_OwchNnrbmWuOAGGFCBi-yUFVoDrF078hQs89jBaQT6JJhVFSkxbyl9MYD4Bj6uVE/s1600/DSC_1086.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOkpEqn4LvB1RCv6BxrLIIf_wsNsBANb4xqyZK-cnGKeZE6ZW62S2MjjzoGHsMW-TTAxJBOz9Kc9_OwchNnrbmWuOAGGFCBi-yUFVoDrF078hQs89jBaQT6JJhVFSkxbyl9MYD4Bj6uVE/s320/DSC_1086.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emilio Montillo Corona demonstrating how he uses the <i>acocote</i>, which he made out of a Coca-Cola bottle and tube.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Day 8: Teotihuacán, Estado de México to Palenque, Chiapas<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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The drive from Teotihuacan to
Palenque exposes you to an approximate 25-degree temperature increase and a
7000-foot elevation decrease. One moment you are passing the snowcapped volcano
of Popocatépetl standing at nearly 18,000 feet above sea level, and the next
you are driving through the virtually flat plains of Tabasco. Aside from the
beautiful sights along the way, it is also the ultimate driver’s test. The
traffic through Puebla and Villahermosa was problematic enough, but
treacherously winding roads devoid of any sort of guardrail increase the level
of difficulty ten-fold. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvvEGRB24POJAsvURDHu1E-DICob3LfMYA56jE-NoObcuOM91y6RGBkcFFj3PhdAkawcBrzphFe1OCXDXwtYRIclnCccHNDETWd9z3Xy9btXbFZMTCjniHmGmw1mpLOccda-VJ4nUi9Z0/s1600/DSC_1259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvvEGRB24POJAsvURDHu1E-DICob3LfMYA56jE-NoObcuOM91y6RGBkcFFj3PhdAkawcBrzphFe1OCXDXwtYRIclnCccHNDETWd9z3Xy9btXbFZMTCjniHmGmw1mpLOccda-VJ4nUi9Z0/s320/DSC_1259.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Volcán Popocatépetl (known locally as Popo) is an active volcano near Puebla.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As we reached the top of a hill along
the way we spotted in the distance a car emitting a large cloud of smoke.
Suddenly, a flame shot up from the back and a black projectile was launched
across the road and landed in the field of cacti lining the side of the road.
Thinking it was a bird that flew over the incident, we were shocked to see the back
driver-side rotor glowing orange from being dragged on the highway for several
seconds. This was the first of many car wheel casualties we would see
throughout the next eight hours to Palenque.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Eight days on the road is without a
doubt a long haul. Over three thousand miles is a lot of driving no matter how
you divide it. Crossing twenty-three state lines and one country border
surpasses the number of states I had previously visited before this trip. To
see such drastic changes in dialect, culture, and climate over 23 degrees of
latitude change is something one could only experience on a voyage like this.
The most exciting part is that there is much work to be done and data to be
collected in Palenque, Chamula, and Tikal, Guatemala. This is only the
beginning to an even more important journey ahead.<o:p></o:p></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18088931935005802050noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-6579851659042086722014-08-06T09:08:00.002-04:002014-08-06T18:09:55.401-04:00What Did We Learn?<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>The more I learn,</i><br />
<i>the more I learn how little I know.</i><br />
<div>
<i> - Socrates</i></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
The main goal of the first season of the Palenque
Pool Project was to excavate and consolidate the largest pool in
the Picota Group with the intention of better understanding its function and
purpose (Video 1).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The secondary objective was to
evaluate and estimate the cost of consolidation of the Picota’s failing
subterranean aqueduct that runs for 60 meters beneath the plaza floor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Below are some of the highlights pertaining
to these questions.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="375" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/102654023" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://vimeo.com/102654023">Video 1 - Palenque Pool - Excavation Time-Lapse</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user30877087">Kirk French</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</div>
<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Pool</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
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The Main Picota Pool, from the water’s edge,
measures approximately 10 X 4 meters with an average depth of 1.25 meters, containing roughly 48 m<sup>3</sup> (48,000 liters) of water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> T</span>he Maya constructed the pool by excavating about
1.5 meters into bedrock, below the water table.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although the pool is within the water table (i.e. a fresh water source) it is also fed by two external sources, 1) a spring in the southwest corner; and 2) a subterranean
conduit in the southeast corner (see Figure 1).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also a constant source of water that bubbles up (out-gassing of CO<span style="font-size: xx-small;">2</span>) from
the pool’s floor (see Video 2).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For the excess water, the pool maintains an overflow drain in the northeast corner that exits into main aqueduct (Figure 2).<br />
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdycur5sQZvlcpjRR_MNHrFvfUUVGC0MqluQvmBjLcmCoyvbLDOHZ1lN9CCc-z2aKOYH22FnWcnfkWr8-QC98LG6zss_yS7o6D6fPZ-igl8V0ffhQXf2qgXSMPfOQCv8opuYMlm3fXXZ0Z/s1600/Picota+Plaza+-+Water+Flow+Map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdycur5sQZvlcpjRR_MNHrFvfUUVGC0MqluQvmBjLcmCoyvbLDOHZ1lN9CCc-z2aKOYH22FnWcnfkWr8-QC98LG6zss_yS7o6D6fPZ-igl8V0ffhQXf2qgXSMPfOQCv8opuYMlm3fXXZ0Z/s1600/Picota+Plaza+-+Water+Flow+Map.jpg" height="320" width="246" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Map showing directional water flow.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/QlH3GQ8HA5E?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Video 2 - Underwater in the Main Picota Pool.</span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Interior of the overflow drain, northeast corner.</td></tr>
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The feature’s east side is marked by a monumental
staircase (Figure 3) composed of nine steps –five above water, one at the
water’s surface, and three underwater – directing the participant to the pool’s floor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjde-1aSufl3R7mrlDT-aipRKRridjaaf9y-ljp1P34QJSOsl-XKt8nZ9yPGXuWTBbjYR7csx91ggTesNX9DgkGR5-OJnYWA5QCdMFvb-doQVgBzfqf-XM5s5VuKR7FE6ZFYlyrfxpXroNf/s1600/Staircase+from+South+side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjde-1aSufl3R7mrlDT-aipRKRridjaaf9y-ljp1P34QJSOsl-XKt8nZ9yPGXuWTBbjYR7csx91ggTesNX9DgkGR5-OJnYWA5QCdMFvb-doQVgBzfqf-XM5s5VuKR7FE6ZFYlyrfxpXroNf/s1600/Staircase+from+South+side.jpg" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - Monumental Staircase of the Main Picota Pool.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The pool’s south side is double terraced, but
unfortunately only small sections of the walls remain intact, with the collapsed portions now submerged. The west and north sides
appear to only have a single terrace or wall.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">The floor of the pool is comprised of a 10-15 cm
layer of sand atop bedrock. The sand’s
origin is unknown as Palenque is devoid of the material. </span>Although it's possible the sand may be the result of the degassing (i.e. the bubbling) through the solid calcium carbonate on the bedrock floor. Analysis of the sand is currently underway. <br /><br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Artifacts retrieved from the excavations consisted
of a few broken matates, a mano, many kilos of pot sherds….oh, and one hippie
crystal.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Function and Purpose</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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I’m fairly certain the pool’s true function and purpose will forever remain a mystery, but the first season did provide us
with some insight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pool’s location,
in a large plaza only 8 meters from Palenque’s only standing stelae, does
suggest that it was ceremonial in nature.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> I</span>nterestingly it’s quite similar to the Spring of San Juan in Chamula (Figure
4), just outside of San Cristobal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> There the Tzotzil community uses the pool only once a year on May 3 for the Fiesta de Santa Cruz.</span><br />
<br />
The nine stairs leading into the pool also indicate an element of ritual as this could be emblematic of the nine Lords of the
Night (G1-G9). Let's also not forget that the pool is below the water table, it's actually underground. The Palencanos may have viewed the pool as a symbolic (or actual) opening into the watery underworld – similar in the reverence held for the sacred <i>cenotes</i> of the northern Yucatan.</div>
<br />
Lastly, if you refer back to the map from Figure 1 you will notice that all three pools in the Picota Group have conduits that bring water in and out of the aqueduct/stream. Now I'm sure there's a symbolic reason for combining the flowing water from the stream with the still water of the pools, but I haven't settled on an explanation for that just yet. However, over the last several months I did notice a functional reason for bringing water in and out of the pool – cleaning. Introducing water from the Picota Stream creates circulation, allowing for debris to easily exit via the overflow drain. Anyone who has ever owned a swimming pool is familiar with this concept. And no, we did not find a diving board or slide during our excavations.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdzC3R5DudTY3Bwpa4MzRrrtvFy-sMqmj-xhL-wVO_-vwU4sWsLFCF4biVxJQZPUuvuA4s-Dz4p_b52w3QyO1JGEsFW3cp_42nIurImfkcHtNk6rozgmlEQR6oc2mdJ7WihvjNLQ0Qo_IS/s1600/Spring+at+San+Juan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdzC3R5DudTY3Bwpa4MzRrrtvFy-sMqmj-xhL-wVO_-vwU4sWsLFCF4biVxJQZPUuvuA4s-Dz4p_b52w3QyO1JGEsFW3cp_42nIurImfkcHtNk6rozgmlEQR6oc2mdJ7WihvjNLQ0Qo_IS/s1600/Spring+at+San+Juan.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - The Spring of San Juan in Chamula</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>The Picota
Aqueduct</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
The main aqueduct that runs beneath the Picota Plaza
is in dire need of consolidation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many
of the large capstones have fallen into the channel, essentially blocking the
flow of water (Figure 5). When the
Picota Stream is flowing at normal levels, this is not a big issue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But when a heavy rain occurs, limbs
and leaf litter get hung up on the collapsed sections, preventing the water from flowing efficiently and thus causing the plaza to flood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw this happen after just one night of
heavy rain in late-May (Figure 6).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Luckily we were there to clear the debris out of the aqueduct, restoring
normal flow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The erosion that occurs
each time this happens is astounding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
less than two years over a cubic meter of erosion has taken place in just one
area of the aqueduct (Figures 1 and 7).</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2qitG6AKCpHieHeIV2k6x5zPhN0kSj9_VJKNxjwuzEmpcHyD4fHsy2kEvW_8xKcMD_0V_Gqf31cYbawzPbGW-A23ihyphenhyphen5SqzH04kmIEQm3OyRYS0xvyA2pe9EJVrIJHX3ATaP008UtiGG/s1600/Collapsed+Aqueduct.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY2qitG6AKCpHieHeIV2k6x5zPhN0kSj9_VJKNxjwuzEmpcHyD4fHsy2kEvW_8xKcMD_0V_Gqf31cYbawzPbGW-A23ihyphenhyphen5SqzH04kmIEQm3OyRYS0xvyA2pe9EJVrIJHX3ATaP008UtiGG/s1600/Collapsed+Aqueduct.JPG" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - A collapsed capstones of the Picota Aqueduct.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOiBYWwBny-tIHnJ-g6h7KC3wlBFTP5LHxa7HtoFGBXThKtQvGWYRID7e6c3MboCSv-ZE72OTKk50nB82gYyIvKDtxolb3Zr_SCJGWXF1oLUcqCWsjq60JetKpc3ZmYmXm1UMp1R_GbSz/s1600/DSC_0318_12297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMOiBYWwBny-tIHnJ-g6h7KC3wlBFTP5LHxa7HtoFGBXThKtQvGWYRID7e6c3MboCSv-ZE72OTKk50nB82gYyIvKDtxolb3Zr_SCJGWXF1oLUcqCWsjq60JetKpc3ZmYmXm1UMp1R_GbSz/s1600/DSC_0318_12297.JPG" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - The Picota Plaza, flooded after one night of heavy rain.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggV2VIlAxHYXi7VmqH8r2umVkxeh-NXk466YPrZGFOO_XTMrK6b8RxaM8oo13Zqp4Qy6i1-wrRCNlOZs-0SSdAXbhLBPhsWRjWOKsA5IgvWHqJu0kGAa14Euy4GsIA9mAHUjDqhUrLvp4Q/s1600/Eroded+Drain-Aqueduct.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggV2VIlAxHYXi7VmqH8r2umVkxeh-NXk466YPrZGFOO_XTMrK6b8RxaM8oo13Zqp4Qy6i1-wrRCNlOZs-0SSdAXbhLBPhsWRjWOKsA5IgvWHqJu0kGAa14Euy4GsIA9mAHUjDqhUrLvp4Q/s1600/Eroded+Drain-Aqueduct.JPG" height="211" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 7 - A heavily eroded section of the Picota Aqueduct.<br />
The aqueduct is on the left, the eroded section is on the right.</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormalCxSpFirst">
The aqueducts of Palenque are a unique
water management feature in the Maya world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They literally define Palenque’s ancient name, Lakamha', meaning Big Water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the Picota Water Complex (pools, drains,
and aqueducts) are all still operational…after some 1500 years without
maintenance...it all still works!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> But not for long. </span>Excavation
and consolidation of the entire system will cost upwards of $400,000, but is
essential for the preservation of this unique feature.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition, test-pitting of the area in the 1950s and 1990s strongly suggests that the Picota Group is the earliest in Palenque. So needless to say, excavation of the Picota
Plaza will no doubt yield enormous data on the early chronology of this ancient city – a subject we know little about.</div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>What’s
Next?</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
The planning for Season 2 has already begun with
the writing up of season reports, analyzing data, publishing results, writing
proposals, and dancing for money (not necessarily in that order).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The plan is to return to Palenque in late-May of 2015 and begin excavating the upper terrace of the south side, as well as the west
and north walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More excavation will
also take place on the floor of the pool. </div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: left;">
So what did we learn? That the Picota Group’s water
system is much more complicated (i.e. interesting) than previously thought. As with most my research I often think of the quote that is attributed to Socrates<i>, </i>"The more I learn, the more I learn how little I know." But isn't it fun? <i><br /></i></div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmoFWUEKN5kyEtR695wHG_6yBfKsVy3jVO6083zJKhYYgWHKpz_lf3zFDAr8snbZ2B7LrfbIRbwHDyIfdURwWgowkhoYz0P8YG5bTiNzDLFHKqnM0jxtmvlPu4cbVlIqCAcnhdx2N2UgO/s1600/Picota+Pool-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmoFWUEKN5kyEtR695wHG_6yBfKsVy3jVO6083zJKhYYgWHKpz_lf3zFDAr8snbZ2B7LrfbIRbwHDyIfdURwWgowkhoYz0P8YG5bTiNzDLFHKqnM0jxtmvlPu4cbVlIqCAcnhdx2N2UgO/s1600/Picota+Pool-2.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Picota Pool at the end of Season 1.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Kirk Frenchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11783909605021304955noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-89782730114833399822014-08-02T19:42:00.000-04:002014-08-02T19:55:21.387-04:00Season's End<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">As rains returned in the early weeks of July, season one of the Palenque Pool Project came to a close. Excavation transitioned into restoration and consolidation, and I had the unhappy experience of seeing team members off. First to leave were Claire, Emily and Elijah, from whom I learned, respectively, how to decode an unnecessarily complicated total station, the advantages of a system of organization that borders on the pathological, and that not everyone born after 1990 has poor musical taste.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1hZvqQQi0R0/U91wtYP4s-I/AAAAAAAAAg0/eaPYQIjpi3k/s1600/DSC_1879_25610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1hZvqQQi0R0/U91wtYP4s-I/AAAAAAAAAg0/eaPYQIjpi3k/s1600/DSC_1879_25610.JPG" height="263" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">Andres, touching-up a cal application on the monumental staircase</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Eventually, the two Kirks and I were all who remained, and our focus turned to the monumental staircase. One of the more edifying results of these final weeks was learning how to mix, make, and apply Quicklime (mixing cal is one heck of a shoulder exercise, let me tell you), as well as secure and strengthen our feature against the inevitable runoff of a tropical rainforest. We also watched a handful of Maya workmen take down a towering tree in fifteen minutes, using no more than machetes and rope.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: black; font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ua_SqNgrjCM/U91vaXUS6UI/AAAAAAAAAgo/8gZOhjg22zw/s1600/DSC_1881_25612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ua_SqNgrjCM/U91vaXUS6UI/AAAAAAAAAgo/8gZOhjg22zw/s1600/DSC_1881_25612.JPG" height="263" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">Kirk Straight mixing cal with Alfonso, the project stone mason</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 18.399999618530273px;">In retrospect, this was the first time I'd been on board from the outset of a new excavation, and out of all the invaluable lessons learned (including the fun stuff, like building screens from scratch and having first pick of sleeping quarters, to the not so fun stuff, like the ever mercurial permit process), undeniably the most important, from a personal point-of-view, was adaptation. For an anthropologist, this might seem like a given. After all, Darwin's elegant but simple theory is what continues to give a great deal of our discipline meaning. But for the non-biological, intra-generational realm, otherwise known as the day-to-day, it's equally fundamental. Moving from Middle Eastern to Mesoamerican archaeology requires a willingness to adapt, to let go of previous held notions or ideas of how things work or should work, and, along with the physical landscape, to change one's mental geography. I'm fortunate to have experienced this now rather than later. And if I'm certain about anything, it's that anthropology, like no other discipline, breaks down barriers, jolts the proverbial <i>Weltanschauung</i>, and bestows a profound degree of open-mindedness in our professional and personal lives.</span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0hyk8_dpqMY/U91yEk6UbLI/AAAAAAAAAhA/DoV2tbjXlao/s1600/DSC_1352_19837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0hyk8_dpqMY/U91yEk6UbLI/AAAAAAAAAhA/DoV2tbjXlao/s1600/DSC_1352_19837.JPG" height="263" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">Eduardo and Andres, sectioning the felled tree</span></td></tr>
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From an archaeological perspective, the apt lesson, stated by Kirk French, was that the first and most important goal of excavation is not learning what something means, but how it works. All that ideational jazz will follow. Fortunately, outlining basic mechanics is exactly what these past months accomplished. Having discovered a number of drains that connected the pool to the aqueduct, we can now begin to understand its function, both independently of, as well as in relation to, other hydrological features in the Picota Group. And because of the alignment and interconnection of those drains, we can also say, without hesitation, that the pool's construction was contemporaneous to that of the aqueduct's, and was also likely to have occurred early in the site's developmental sequence.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-59aZjyQOv3M/U91yqLQCy8I/AAAAAAAAAhI/9Hc3om-5xDw/s1600/DSC_1396_19881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-59aZjyQOv3M/U91yqLQCy8I/AAAAAAAAAhI/9Hc3om-5xDw/s1600/DSC_1396_19881.JPG" height="263" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">Cal getting carried by tumpline to the site</span></td></tr>
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Overall, the project was a success, having much to offer to an archaeologist in transition, like myself, and more broadly (and importantly), to our understanding of Palenque.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-50827973295577045602014-06-20T13:53:00.000-04:002014-06-20T13:53:03.456-04:00Mapping the Palenque Pools<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Archaeologists have long understood the importance of
space in archaeological research. Beginning with John Lloyd Stephens and
Fredrick Catherwood’s first foray into the jungles of Mesoamerica in the
mid-nineteenth century, explorers and archaeologists alike have put a
considerable amount of effort into mapping the monumental architecture of Maya
sites. Specifically, archaeological inquiry has been focused on visualization,
data management, and spatial analyses of monumental architecture as well as
hinterland Maya households. Spatial data can include formal attributes concerning
size and shape of archaeological features (e.g., artifacts, units, sites,
regions, etc.), as well as their morphology. Consideration of spatial scales is
also important for understanding how people built, modified, and lived in their
environment in the past. Scale includes the extent and duration of
archaeological phenomena: individual behavior taking place over short intervals
of time in a small space; settlement processes including annual or seasonal
rounds; and ecological processes that occur over large regions or long periods
of time. The challenge for archaeologists is to infer processes from spatial patterning.
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With the development of Geographic Information Systems
(GIS) in the 1990’s, many archaeologists began to incorporate GIS into their
archaeological toolkit in recognition of its ability to organize complex sets
of spatial data. Maya archaeologists have been especially active in mapping
large site centers and their hinterland populations. Detailed mapping projects
have been carried out at Palenque under the auspices of the Palenque Mapping
Project (1998-2000), as well as at the sites of La Milpa and Copan, to name a few.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
The Palenque Pool Project team has focused our efforts on
detailed mapping of the Pictoa Group, adding features uncovered during the 2014
field season to the larger site map produced by the Palenque Mapping Project.
We used a Leica Total station to record the location of architectural features
at the site.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMgAF93CI2haSg-VJILJdXzo5zDEJASPUHEi0y3VxRDH-AiZu7AvK12LLpnrf45Mu8C2w23gkVd6pHI2RXbSoLkB4PLzowzPKmkeEi3-9lGJzcJI9cEu9USKCWehKJoTbjGbSNilkSXfg/s1600/DSC_0200_10915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMgAF93CI2haSg-VJILJdXzo5zDEJASPUHEi0y3VxRDH-AiZu7AvK12LLpnrf45Mu8C2w23gkVd6pHI2RXbSoLkB4PLzowzPKmkeEi3-9lGJzcJI9cEu9USKCWehKJoTbjGbSNilkSXfg/s1600/DSC_0200_10915.JPG" height="320" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Project member Reed Goodman using the total station to map architecture in the Picota Group. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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During excavations this season, we have defined the extent
of one of the pools in the group, located two drain features on the west side
of the pool, and found a series of 9 steps that lead into the pool also on the
west side. All of these features have been added to the map in order to
understand the spatial layout of the pool. We have also mapped two additional
pools to the north and south in more detail. As archaeological investigations continue
in the Picota Group, new features can be added to the map in order to
understand how the ancient Maya used the pools. </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3l0e0zTgvWdWEJIxTuUyJSq-XKy4DySaVxhyphenhyphenacIfYpiTT8xDsoEOYm5Z8wOn65CyFwGZyPmHx9IdQ8AVZC_kJH7TIN57sLnp4xTioEPQY2mKw9TwPowN8SEO58V1RtA2jDWJGgJi6f78/s1600/Picota+Group-01-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3l0e0zTgvWdWEJIxTuUyJSq-XKy4DySaVxhyphenhyphenacIfYpiTT8xDsoEOYm5Z8wOn65CyFwGZyPmHx9IdQ8AVZC_kJH7TIN57sLnp4xTioEPQY2mKw9TwPowN8SEO58V1RtA2jDWJGgJi6f78/s1600/Picota+Group-01-01.jpg" height="320" width="246" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Map of the Picota Group with location of pools.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyqrYmZjq30E7E7_PG7ICoH2wnI2LpFE6aESx_UNi_Qym8Bt2LE5ZVLyxhIaDm5scbeAuhmISLAc0SJt8tSEs0pJzG1Ob8fV3Vo1kIluQAtRghT7taNa2PEYl9ljN053Ll8oipLYw8xy8/s1600/Pool-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyqrYmZjq30E7E7_PG7ICoH2wnI2LpFE6aESx_UNi_Qym8Bt2LE5ZVLyxhIaDm5scbeAuhmISLAc0SJt8tSEs0pJzG1Ob8fV3Vo1kIluQAtRghT7taNa2PEYl9ljN053Ll8oipLYw8xy8/s1600/Pool-01.jpg" height="210" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of pool investigated this year as part of the Paleque Pool Project.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Clairehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12454439505238463891noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-70342968164499340922014-06-03T08:02:00.000-04:002014-06-03T09:12:39.516-04:00Sunday Drive to Bonampak & Yaxchilan<style type="text/css">
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After a relaxing Saturday free of any
plans, the team decided to take a day trip to two nearby Maya sites:
Bonampak and Yaxchilan. An advantage of being in the heartland of
Maya territory is the accessibility of many magnificent ruins in the
area. Sometimes the journey can be a tad dicey, as we quickly learned
on our trip, but it is certainly worth the trouble once you walk into
these ancient centers.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Throughout our time here in Mexico we
have experienced an endless number of <i>topes </i><span style="font-style: normal;">(speed
bumps), which team member Emily loves to point out quite audibly each
time we approach one. Had she done the same for this trip, it is
certain she would have no voice by the time we would reach Bonampak
due to their frequency along this road. As you drive through the tiny
towns that are scattered along Route 186, there is a </span><i>tope
</i><span style="font-style: normal;">just about every time you had
enough time to reach 30 miles per hour.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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Our first destination was Bonampak, a
site that dates back to the Early Classic period (AD 580). This
center is most famous for its illustrious murals, which were painted
in AD 790 and are located in three separate chambers midway up the
main hill. The fresco-style murals depict, in intricate detail, a
robing ceremony in the first room, a war scene in the second and
ritual bloodletting in the last one.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
However, in order to see these famous
murals we had to jump through a few hoops. As we neared Bonampak, we
were flagged down by a group of Lacandon Maya who informed us we
could not take our car the whole way to the site and had to ride in
one of their taxis. So the team piled into a couple of cars and
started on the gravel road, only to be met by a traffic jam in the
middle of the jungle. In front of the line of about fifteen halted
cars was a group of men trying to cut and move a massive tree that
had fallen on the road during the torrential downpours that ravaged
the area the past twenty-four hours.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU9PrsXjalljivkVwrn39D8fzT-O4v0pQiPw1rzXDxPrpQ829xzCIx99Pe69kwsm48NzOMIrb7Fl1jbZ5TaWFLJcEa9MDgVR86whhW5yhfTzVD14JlW4yTicyxBJMIwTwTd5-OHqFjrrQ/s1600/P1010847.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU9PrsXjalljivkVwrn39D8fzT-O4v0pQiPw1rzXDxPrpQ829xzCIx99Pe69kwsm48NzOMIrb7Fl1jbZ5TaWFLJcEa9MDgVR86whhW5yhfTzVD14JlW4yTicyxBJMIwTwTd5-OHqFjrrQ/s1600/P1010847.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kirk helps a group of Lacandon Maya move a tree from the road.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Once we were finally able to reach the
site, we were surprised at the compact size of the site. Bonampak
makes Palenque, a site that is not known for being very large, seem
absolutely massive. There are no separate groups of architecture, as
is seen at most other Maya sites. Instead, there are a few stelae
displayed at the base of a large staircase that leads you up to the
Temple of the Murals. The vibrant color of the murals, which are
dated to AD 790, is the most impressive part. It is stunning that the
rich blues, reds and yellows have survived more than 1,200 years and
are able to be viewed by visitors in 2014.<br />
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijvzOwgU8oe6REcKbOTBhC7Je4itKjurbDhhGZj1ZHI2dxpWEJZqXCs3Vq5tOOE-dYL5chamSLF9xlb7N0qxMx3o_Wu264FqnMbfZJQ3sYChGfEpveY1NDseUZAjOabclfkxdcCRSzOw/s1600/P1010862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhijvzOwgU8oe6REcKbOTBhC7Je4itKjurbDhhGZj1ZHI2dxpWEJZqXCs3Vq5tOOE-dYL5chamSLF9xlb7N0qxMx3o_Wu264FqnMbfZJQ3sYChGfEpveY1NDseUZAjOabclfkxdcCRSzOw/s1600/P1010862.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A portion of the mural in Room 1.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The second leg of our adventure brought
us to the banks of the Usumacinta River, a portion of the border
between Mexico and Guatemala. Tucked away in the jungle that lines
the violently flowing river is Yaxchilan, a powerful Classic Maya
center which experienced its height around AD 650. This site is home
to more than 120 structures and large number of remarkable stelae.<br />
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Getting to Yaxchilan is also no easy
task. After rumbling down a torn up road and paying numerous tolls
just to get to the town of Frontera Corozal, you must take a
half-hour boat ride down the Usumacinta to reach the site. The unique
feature associated with this site is its careful layering as the
elevation increases. At the base of the hills is the Gran Plaza,
where many of these stelae and structures stand. As we walked up a
seemingly infinite amount of stairs, we found ourselves in the Gran
Acrópolis overlooking the plaza from the spectacular Structure 33.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Z5CW0Wyuc3_pwIqobV_Bb3fo-dtWMoYEWwed-stovo-3hBgOGPqZ7KcadYXoUzUXQDthdV3mpaizo1z2O9ZlHIdoNUnt4WkcJN7OmKuZ2WB0GNnHHpxN1vMbh-WU5fp9ZfRf0k_9QAA/s1600/P1010908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Z5CW0Wyuc3_pwIqobV_Bb3fo-dtWMoYEWwed-stovo-3hBgOGPqZ7KcadYXoUzUXQDthdV3mpaizo1z2O9ZlHIdoNUnt4WkcJN7OmKuZ2WB0GNnHHpxN1vMbh-WU5fp9ZfRf0k_9QAA/s1600/P1010908.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The P3 team riding down the Usumacinta on the way to Yaxchilan.</td></tr>
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br />
Just when we thought that was the
highest elevation we would experience, our team leader Kirk French
took us to another steep path going higher into the hills. Suddenly
emerging from the dense trees was the Templos del Sur, which hold a
breathtaking view of the site. At this point we had just a half-hour
left until our return boat arrived, so on the way out we stopped by
the final part of the site: the Pequeña Acrópolis. Once back at the
car, we set off on trek back to Palenque. Due to the cumbersome
nature of the roads, the 80 miles that separate these two locations
take about three hours to complete.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKoESmMlr5ULS0GsdtQu3nRrCwY7Pdupfsk0eM_9I0yRNvRq1i4pY294M9LL7QaYIBUx1Tzq-8C6TG2uXmcOxM7oTgkpJmm7erkWcu4agYKp-2l8X9_MfpKDIXxwjBuXzZqmmCd-AF0EY/s1600/P1010959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKoESmMlr5ULS0GsdtQu3nRrCwY7Pdupfsk0eM_9I0yRNvRq1i4pY294M9LL7QaYIBUx1Tzq-8C6TG2uXmcOxM7oTgkpJmm7erkWcu4agYKp-2l8X9_MfpKDIXxwjBuXzZqmmCd-AF0EY/s1600/P1010959.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Structure 33 at Yaxchilan.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
As a team we have determined that here
in Mexico, there are no plans. You can only have vague goals that
need to be accomplished someway, somehow. There are always going to
be bumps in the road (sometimes quite literally), and you must learn
to roll with the punches and stay focused on that objective. We did
not expect many of the challenges we faced along our voyage, but it
was all worth it in the end when we encountered the shear beauty and
grandeur of Bonampak and Yaxchilan.</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/18088931935005802050noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-20267008579599349572014-05-31T19:58:00.001-04:002014-05-31T19:58:13.235-04:00We Can't Do It Without ThemMuch of our effort over the last week was put toward
removing the large stones from inside the pool. Most of the stones are from the
collapsed terraces that surround the pool on its south, west, and north sides. Many
of these stones are manageable in size, ranging from 25-120 lb.. Then there are
the stones that would make most people (i.e. tenderfoot academics)
either 1) build a road through the jungle in order to drive in an industrial
hydraulic crane, or 2) just give up all together. But seriously, these stones
have to be removed if proper consolidation of the feature is to take place. This
requires lifting these monoliths from underwater, up about 4 meters, and then
placed safely on the plaza floor…a total distance of about 10 meters. So who ya gonna call? The Tzeltal Maya from
Naranjo of course!<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hey, if you are in the mood for a dose of emasculation just
spend a few hours watching these guys work. It’s the complete opposite of,
let’s say, a trip to Walmart, which tends to provide a little self-image boost.
After about 15 minutes you walk out of there thinking, “Hell, I’m not doing so
bad after all.” This is not how you feel after watching the Maya move mountains
for a day. You walk back to your field truck mumbling, “Am I a man, am I a boy,
am I even human?”<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjim2RcNRVLuCGxBer_DVGWXS7vMcFeFaLZL3vArfIrOmL-x6pqvkPr5N-DgwkSCh8qcGT1PXV-Mt-Ixn26jAURLAicwPqKI9RnXlTGwtdxyW37xSIOEp4ExHQh0s5etHekGpDK5W-iOcLt/s1600/carrying+stone+closeup.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjim2RcNRVLuCGxBer_DVGWXS7vMcFeFaLZL3vArfIrOmL-x6pqvkPr5N-DgwkSCh8qcGT1PXV-Mt-Ixn26jAURLAicwPqKI9RnXlTGwtdxyW37xSIOEp4ExHQh0s5etHekGpDK5W-iOcLt/s1600/carrying+stone+closeup.JPG" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jesus getting loaded up with a large cut stone from the pool's floor.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVfbcv110u_aK34Y8YvUseIkDVJTK9qSaiBfoRNHM7rN9U94I-jQJyYjpgeUqdv8U8D5nnruHzMLbVyi-N3_wXuEq5_iLMtpiDc2yzL6WctKZfGGHyn4BwyhyphenhyphenThHBlgU1OJlxBgnFtpSCJ/s1600/carrying+stone+overview.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVfbcv110u_aK34Y8YvUseIkDVJTK9qSaiBfoRNHM7rN9U94I-jQJyYjpgeUqdv8U8D5nnruHzMLbVyi-N3_wXuEq5_iLMtpiDc2yzL6WctKZfGGHyn4BwyhyphenhyphenThHBlgU1OJlxBgnFtpSCJ/s1600/carrying+stone+overview.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From left to right - Jesus, Nicolas, Andreas, and Eduardo moving stones from the pool's interior.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Some of the workmen only weigh about 140 lb.. but can easily
carry a 200 lb. stone on their back while walking out of the water and up a
broken staircase in rubber boots that are filled with water! A few of the
stones in the pool were upwards of 500 pounds. They asked for a pulley, some
rope, and two more workers (four in all). It took all of us, the four workers
and us four gringos (which by the way is the equivalent of five Maya workers),
but we did it (see photo)!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1He-I21a6k_u1GoAnfR5-Ou8GRjvJWQoYSwdhW57BFwBrgTpQ2PWUithwzn_Zb9yL2aZvaN6_WxxC0RAVTOYPnOio7rAQFNfGAHLPy0fc5c3vDLn4gi9CiocTPfZz3ERsQOcFPO98WBLp/s1600/moving+the+big+stone.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1He-I21a6k_u1GoAnfR5-Ou8GRjvJWQoYSwdhW57BFwBrgTpQ2PWUithwzn_Zb9yL2aZvaN6_WxxC0RAVTOYPnOio7rAQFNfGAHLPy0fc5c3vDLn4gi9CiocTPfZz3ERsQOcFPO98WBLp/s1600/moving+the+big+stone.JPG" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All eight (or five) of us pulling a 350 pound stone from the pool using a rope and pulley.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now I know for some readers, this is nothing new. You may
have spent time in another country and witnessed something similar. I too have
seen this before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I’ll tell you
what, it will never cease to blow my mind.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSRscXdh0z-i9Qf-dIrWKunldxOKHU-sqk43e2VFluTHBkVvo5UKuZIaQKVmAwkUTPoErZpVHc5v1624muR-MSRKvzhtZy5mSgvCDhYZe4Omw37rs3ilIQm4nGJ88iW84VDc_BrJuBfeb/s1600/pump+on+a+cart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSRscXdh0z-i9Qf-dIrWKunldxOKHU-sqk43e2VFluTHBkVvo5UKuZIaQKVmAwkUTPoErZpVHc5v1624muR-MSRKvzhtZy5mSgvCDhYZe4Omw37rs3ilIQm4nGJ88iW84VDc_BrJuBfeb/s1600/pump+on+a+cart.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first attempt to take the pump to the Picota Group.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Here’s another example. The water pump only weighs about 90
lb.. but it’s a bit awkward. Before I hired any workmen we tried using a small
cart to carry the pump to the site (see photo). That proved too difficult, plus
everyone was looking at us like we were crazy. I wonder why (see photo again)? The
next time the pump went out with us Kirk Straight grabbed one side and Reed
grabbed the other. This was much more practical, but the 1 km hike on a narrow
trail did take it’s toll on them. This past Thursday I decided to take the pump
to the site one more time. Although I knew it would not dewater the pool, I
wanted to see how it would help with removing light sediment. It didn’t by the
way. At 7:30am Andreas and Eduardo met us in the parking lot, like they do
everyday, to help us carry equipment (buckets, shovels, etc.). I explained to
them that we have a new piece of equipment, so while they carry the pump, we
will take all the other stuff. At that moment, Andreas grabs the pump with one
hand and lifts it onto his shoulders, positions it on the back of his neck and
just starts walking. Immediately I thought that many years ago I must have been
the victim of some sort of alien abduction involving castration followed by
reconstructive surgery. What is going on here? We all looked at each other in
disbelief. Oh, and when we got to the pool, Andreas sat the pump down gently
and didn’t show a single sign of distress. I on the other hand I was soaked
with sweat from carrying a machete and two liters of water.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Archaeologists throughout much of the world could not carry
out their research without the brawn and ingenuity of local workers. The
Tzeltal Maya that live in the Palenque area have been the backbone (literally)
of every archaeological project that has taken place here since Patrick Walker
and John Herbert Caddy arrived in late January of 1840. We owe them so much
more than the meager wages our projects provide. I raise a glass of pox (or
whatever the local drink is) to the workers around the globe who make
archaeology happen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We couldn’t do it
without you.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKrvIjNomKMh80OO-1As5_-evziUdCS98CcrbAkcQqqMgB4oB5AuXNCyy1ijA6VJcCyBFCXTCuK80e84jKGHEcIc-0pMdhop_hJYrWBNXyUuE2xZTLgzcNYoxG8tVSHEU6inTQPobRs4m/s1600/pox+-+salud.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKrvIjNomKMh80OO-1As5_-evziUdCS98CcrbAkcQqqMgB4oB5AuXNCyy1ijA6VJcCyBFCXTCuK80e84jKGHEcIc-0pMdhop_hJYrWBNXyUuE2xZTLgzcNYoxG8tVSHEU6inTQPobRs4m/s1600/pox+-+salud.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shot of pox from Chamula, a Maya community on the outskirts of San Cristobal. I bought a three liter gas can of it across the street from the ceremonial pool in Chamula. Salud!</td></tr>
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Kirk Frenchhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11783909605021304955noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-39951733301377688972014-05-27T20:11:00.000-04:002014-06-06T19:19:52.196-04:00Week 1 Recap <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<i>Water, water, every where,<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>And all the boards did shrink;<o:p></o:p></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<i>Water, water, every where,<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<i>Nor any drop to drink.</i></div>
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<br /></div>
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-- from <i>The Rime of the Ancient Mariner</i>, by Samuel Taylor Coleridge<br />
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A first principle of archaeology is that research designs
can and will change. Despite preparations for a dry excavation, including the
use of a gas powered bilge pump, we've found ourselves waist deep in Palenqueño
water, what it means to be from <s>Maine,</s> Chiapas. Our PI, Kirk French,
quickly realized that the ancient pool was built into bedrock, its limestone
basin dipping beneath the water table. When the pool's depth leveled off soon
into draining, the team was quickly disabused of illusions for neatly defined strata
(goodbye, Harris matrix), and was encouraged to look for creative solutions. We
decided that the best possible approach involved the feature's division into neatly
defined sections, with wet screening of removed sediment for artifact recovery. This required that we shift gears from more traditional dry land archaeology,
to a type of underwater work (well half underwater, anyway). And this is most welcomed: shaded by
dense jungle and cooled with spring water, the change in methods has offered a
welcome respite from unrelenting humidity in the tropical environment).<br />
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<o:p></o:p><br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pSy_mc4nzCg/U4P0tzKaBDI/AAAAAAAAAc8/YDYYQeYlgr4/s1600/DSC_9804_3877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pSy_mc4nzCg/U4P0tzKaBDI/AAAAAAAAAc8/YDYYQeYlgr4/s1600/DSC_9804_3877.JPG" height="419" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kirk French, attempting to get a better view</td></tr>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Between donning bathing suits and transporting frogs from one water source to another (more on that in another post), the excavation has proved to be unique in every way, with each moment presenting a new learning
experience. To begin with, we knew from earlier studies that the ancient Maya of
Palenque were ingenious hydrological engineers. Since the beginnings of
habitation, water was an abundant resource, even in excess at certain times of
the year. This ecological fact surely played into the site's ancient name, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lakamha</i>,<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">' </i>or "Big
Water." And as a result, the Palenqueños had to devise a means to control
runoff during the rainy season, diverting streams into underground aqueducts
that ran beneath plaza floors, thereby practicing flood control and, significantly,
expanding inhabitable space (on what was then, and remains today, a relatively restricted escarpment). <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The exact
timing and degree of Palenque's waterworks, however, remain poorly understood,
though our work is already shedding light in this important area of
research.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have located a monumental
staircase on the eastern side of the feature, leading down into the pool. Its
stones are monolithic, single-coursed blocks, some of which remain in excellent
condition. An impressive wall, fashioned with at least some terracing, faces the southern side of the pool, though it's still too early to
speak to its original design. Overall, the structure required a much greater degree of engineering and planning than
we originally envisioned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KOR72CpVDlQ/U4Uo4dGuBuI/AAAAAAAAAdo/99azHf-NZNk/s1600/DSC_9942_5562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KOR72CpVDlQ/U4Uo4dGuBuI/AAAAAAAAAdo/99azHf-NZNk/s1600/DSC_9942_5562.JPG" height="424" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kirk Straight, project ceramicist, drawing the staircase</td></tr>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>To back up
a bit, our feature, located in the Picota Group, is recharged from the stream
of the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Arroyo Picota</i>, and sits astride an ancient aqueduct. That aqueduct remains largely intact,
continuing to channel water beneath an early plaza floor, just to the
southeast of the pool. These architectural phenomena are just over a kilometer from polity center, forcing the observer to reconsider notions of a centralized site plan. In addition, the pool is within meters of Palenque's only known
stela, a type of stone monument presumed to be associated with kingship. The
seeming monumentality of the pool, made apparent with little more than a week's
worth of work, and its location in and articulation with other features from the
Picota Group, clearly signals an important role of water ritual and technology for
early Palenque. <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--VYA6OxeHI8/U4R0ruq0slI/AAAAAAAAAdM/f1N15uTfhco/s1600/DSC_9258_464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--VYA6OxeHI8/U4R0ruq0slI/AAAAAAAAAdM/f1N15uTfhco/s1600/DSC_9258_464.JPG" height="419" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stela in the Picota Group, just beyond the pool (photo taken by author)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-57327297911582706512014-05-19T09:42:00.005-04:002014-05-19T09:45:37.442-04:00Weekend Trip to Ocosingo and Tonina<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Over the past few days we’ve experienced
unprecedented amounts of rain for this time of year. Coupled with cooler
temperatures, this cold/wet weather has made for a few slow days around the house.
Yesterday we decided to combat the cabin fever by visiting the town of Ocosingo
and the site of Toniná, a Maya site about two hours from where we’re staying. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Though long and winding, the drive was
pleasant and the views of the surrounding landscape exceptional, especially as
we climbed higher in altitude into the Chiapas highlands. The road between
Ocosingo and Palenque is dotted with the rural villages of modern Maya, and we
saw many of them planting corn and weeding their <i>milpas</i> as we drove past. This area of the Chiapas highlands is the
heartland of the Zapatista National Liberation Army (EZLN), a largely
indigenous peasant-based leftist group seeking indigenous control over local resources,
especially land. The Maya communities of Chiapas live in impoverished
conditions and are largely excluded from modern development, with over 90% of
indigenous households without electricity and running water. In response to
historically poor living conditions and economic disenfranchisement, the EZLN
staged a rebellion from their base San Cristobal de Las Casas, Chiapas on
January 1, 1994. Since then, insurgency has developed into a powerful political
movement that advocates for Mexico’s disenfranchised indigenous groups. Many of
the Maya villages we passed along the road from Palenque to Ocosingo displayed
signs and murals in support of the EZLN and their political objectives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYWlCIVnIw2IZDZmPAGrvqXII0ph1MdIlHzd8ijwF644pNN2_sT7hmOEpV11UL-4esO4UXerYJKtR1IDxJrHhUDfzth-xB_1N339aBSt9wTlh0XF_wQpIvTk5mcUBWGKGywI_65DY59wE/s1600/DSC_0510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYWlCIVnIw2IZDZmPAGrvqXII0ph1MdIlHzd8ijwF644pNN2_sT7hmOEpV11UL-4esO4UXerYJKtR1IDxJrHhUDfzth-xB_1N339aBSt9wTlh0XF_wQpIvTk5mcUBWGKGywI_65DY59wE/s1600/DSC_0510.JPG" height="195" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A horse grazing outside of Tonina, overlooking the Ocosingo Valley. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">After a two hour drive, we arrived in Ocosingo, and took a brief stroll around the </span><i style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">zocalo</i><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> (town square) before sitting down to lunch. After lunch, we moseyed over to the Toniná Archaeological Park to tour the ruins and visit the museum on site. Toniná is a medium sized Classic Period site located in the Ocosingo Valley, about 40 miles south of Palenque. The monumental site center of Toniná was established during the Early Classic, though early components of the site are not well known. Toniná bears the last long count date in the Maya lowlands – AD 909 – marking the “collapse” of political institutions centered upon the </span><i style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">kuhul ajaw</i><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">, or divine kings.</span></div>
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</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbG2riHbNet4y8OgBF2sk-vIQAG9qzAJLpBvNQJBLoeIA2F_FdBuwwJm_09V5SSVBF5qMN-lRLNf0WSq-zhEUJH-WMSejXUPGsw2C2Vbbwp3fGI7atYjKJQcyvylegGs6b5mBOjiWhBY/s1600/DSC_0487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbG2riHbNet4y8OgBF2sk-vIQAG9qzAJLpBvNQJBLoeIA2F_FdBuwwJm_09V5SSVBF5qMN-lRLNf0WSq-zhEUJH-WMSejXUPGsw2C2Vbbwp3fGI7atYjKJQcyvylegGs6b5mBOjiWhBY/s1600/DSC_0487.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The presence of the EZLN influence marked with a sign, with Tonina in the background.</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7LXJNdRQcdUDu7Y0p0G_qRoSrssKv1m4VUk0McD0iG9VFiEsH47Zck22cQoh_S4U31L_SUo8MpiGUuYLbEUcQXQqPJb9qNixmvT9HkRuQCN8h-QYjSCUALG1fmT2LEb-FyuO9jFtyMFM/s1600/DSC_0499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7LXJNdRQcdUDu7Y0p0G_qRoSrssKv1m4VUk0McD0iG9VFiEsH47Zck22cQoh_S4U31L_SUo8MpiGUuYLbEUcQXQqPJb9qNixmvT9HkRuQCN8h-QYjSCUALG1fmT2LEb-FyuO9jFtyMFM/s1600/DSC_0499.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emily makes a new friend on the way to the ruins.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="text-indent: .5in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Toniná is best known as a militaristic polity,
evident in its art, inscriptions, and architecture. Images of bound captives
are shown on many of their carved and sculpted monuments, including one of the
only Maya depictions of a female captive. While Toniná apparently feuded with
several Maya kingdoms, its greatest foe was Palenque. Many of the glyphic texts
at the site detail sporadic warfare events between the two sites over hundreds
of years in the Late Classic Period. At the end of the 7<sup>th</sup> century,
inscriptions at Toniná hint at the greater strength of Palenque. For instance,
Ruler 2 of Toniná disappears from written records in AD 687 after a conflict
with Palenque. Toniná later became the dominant center when it captured several
vassals of Palenque in AD 699. Ballcourt 1 at Toniná shows the six sculpted prisoners
with their hands bound and heads lowered. In the 8<sup>th</sup> century, Toniná
successfully launched a “star war” against Palenque, and in AD 711 the Toniná ruler
B’aaknal Chaak entered the Palenque site core and sized its ruler K’an Joy
Chitam, leaving a 10 year gap in Palenque’s dynastic history. Toniná remained
the dominant site in the region in the Terminal Classic Period. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzr02vyMfGTIGn2jNRRtl1Eh6QRhO2otpp0Db7koMU2SDLyFCyz9AFllIdR7GuoE3KRUxi8xTcOYBrIREa6PCLM-_97hZnORks_LN9Ryq8HtBXO3xos3mukb7IwDgoUYlYI5bEGTFMUQI/s1600/DSC_0526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzr02vyMfGTIGn2jNRRtl1Eh6QRhO2otpp0Db7koMU2SDLyFCyz9AFllIdR7GuoE3KRUxi8xTcOYBrIREa6PCLM-_97hZnORks_LN9Ryq8HtBXO3xos3mukb7IwDgoUYlYI5bEGTFMUQI/s1600/DSC_0526.JPG" height="293" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tenon heads at Tonina Ballcourt 1.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4_ALZI0xzvh9BGLgLBiELl_1nNTePSHDsXu4FoONgVJwZDlNu1v4p6mpo5WhyUN2qqCxbDgfIDePs4X96VUuDYSge0clVPgFO74fhQ67fiWPJWUUJQ33detSZ9B1TZDZj-7dDpptEEfM/s1600/DSC_0579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4_ALZI0xzvh9BGLgLBiELl_1nNTePSHDsXu4FoONgVJwZDlNu1v4p6mpo5WhyUN2qqCxbDgfIDePs4X96VUuDYSge0clVPgFO74fhQ67fiWPJWUUJQ33detSZ9B1TZDZj-7dDpptEEfM/s1600/DSC_0579.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stela depicting the 6th century ruler Jaguar Bird Peccary.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Toniná is also well known for its elaborate
sculpted friezes. The Frieze of the Dream Lords, shown below, depicts the
parallel universe of the <i>wayob’</i>,
where the alter egos of the Maya nobility lived. The skeletal figure depicted
in the frieze is called “Turtle Foot Death’ because he wears turtle shells on his
feet. Decapitated heads, jaguars, and other fantastic images are also evident
in the frieze.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQ-J6itcU2sre-xgYb0JS3yxK_MO9ivbZXjw5Vw9HxiMwXvoVTUpOtwO4x6B1faiZIrZ66fINoSyNFjXgfsm52C68mrS1ZbR7H-9zRWzVSBHXGsuI4-indfiqLSVUKZBcbOJL7Oyz9PA/s1600/DSC_0598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQ-J6itcU2sre-xgYb0JS3yxK_MO9ivbZXjw5Vw9HxiMwXvoVTUpOtwO4x6B1faiZIrZ66fINoSyNFjXgfsm52C68mrS1ZbR7H-9zRWzVSBHXGsuI4-indfiqLSVUKZBcbOJL7Oyz9PA/s1600/DSC_0598.JPG" height="225" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frieze of the Dream Lords, left panel, showing "Turtle Foot Death" in the center.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-indent: 0.5in;">One of the features at Toniná we (Claire and Emily) most enjoyed was the carving of an Earth Monster near the top of the Toniná complex. Though part of the sculpture is missing, it is still possible to see the monster opening its mouth and the scorched insides where fires were most likely lit. It’s easy to imagine how imposing this monument would have looked when a fire was roaring inside of its mouth.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwImTa9HXh_89x-rtxlHdNGHVeO-htj_Ev1UAseIIAvH_goRhKmnvNaNOihrg6VJS8_qJT0DNJuPuQbm44ZtRNY-BAyHt_bibzcSgcywH6Jf00IrQ1JthflOQuUUu4MJg8JsryojOTX-I/s1600/DSC_0604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwImTa9HXh_89x-rtxlHdNGHVeO-htj_Ev1UAseIIAvH_goRhKmnvNaNOihrg6VJS8_qJT0DNJuPuQbm44ZtRNY-BAyHt_bibzcSgcywH6Jf00IrQ1JthflOQuUUu4MJg8JsryojOTX-I/s1600/DSC_0604.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Altar of the Earth Monster, showing a fanged serpent with a stone ball in his mouth.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_cibpItqCjz0TSi6INukrZMmU1-o1RJjIdnlft-55_jnHcaX8MQB2D_gyUSrdX9ivm3QXQ0iczSL3qDF23ltF1_v4DV7AKTDM1NGbyeRn2piMKMmAM_3ELDdywLplH1eYOa8yLj1pFqo/s1600/DSC_0637.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_cibpItqCjz0TSi6INukrZMmU1-o1RJjIdnlft-55_jnHcaX8MQB2D_gyUSrdX9ivm3QXQ0iczSL3qDF23ltF1_v4DV7AKTDM1NGbyeRn2piMKMmAM_3ELDdywLplH1eYOa8yLj1pFqo/s1600/DSC_0637.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Ocosingo Valley from the top of the Tonina main temple. </td></tr>
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Clairehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12454439505238463891noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4745756870747838429.post-57823701052601112522014-05-14T15:05:00.000-04:002014-05-15T11:46:58.209-04:00Day 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Following a drive that covered nine states and most of Mexico, we arrived at our destination last Wednesday evening, one week ago, on May 7th. The trip presented a number of firsts: for one of us, this included venison sausage, hushpuppies, and a look at the ruins of one of the most famous of ancient Maya sites, Palenque.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palenque, looking northwest from the Temple of the Cross (photo taken by author)<br />
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Before heading south of the border, we picked up our project investigator's brother, Mark (our PI, Kirk French, did the driving). Fortunately for the three of us, our musical tastes were in line, and we shared stories about and listened to, among others, ZZ Top's <i>Tres Hombres</i>, Dylan's <i>Blood on the Tracks</i>, and, of course, Willie Nelson's <i>Shotgun Willie</i>.<br />
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Our first night in Mexico was spent in the Federal District of San Luis Potosi. We stayed in a room with floor to ceiling windows overlooking the historic city center. After recharging on <i>enchiladas potosinas</i>, we took in and admired the colonial architecture, numerous plazas, and looming cathedrals, especially the Templo de Nuestra Señora del Carmen. Leaving the window shades drawn open, we woke to sunlight throwing shadows across winding streets and open <i>zócalos</i>.<br />
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The next day involved fifteen hours on the road. Moving from the central highlands to the southern lowlands, vast altitudinal changes proved a first-rate lesson in cultural ecology. As we approached Córdoba in the Mexican state of Veracruz, irrigated fields around Tuxtla and Puebla gave way to slash-and-burn milpa systems and jungle. Temperatures rose a remarkable twenty degrees in little more than two hours. Dense swarms of flies and screeching cicadas, brought on by the still night air, reminded us that Pennsylvania was far behind. We were also reminded--the hard way--that streets in other countries are not marked like those in the States, and that we Americans are far too dependent on a GPS and cell phone.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Milpa burning, near Ocosingo (photo taken by author)</td></tr>
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The weekend was spent finalizing permissions and taking in the sights of San Cristobal and the cathedral of San Juan de Chomula. Here, a traditional Maya community integrates native mythology with Catholicism, producing a hybridized practice of saintly veneration and animism. The floors of the church are covered in pine needles and laurel leaves, symbolic of the church as a cave within a forest. The inner sanctum is filled with burning candles of various shapes, sizes and colors, all representative of a particular sacrament. Between the prayers, smoke and pungent foliage, the interior has a sense of mirth and sadness, all at once.<br />
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Today we officially begin work. The project involves the draining and excavation of an ancient Maya pool in the Picota Group, one of Palenque's earliest monumental precincts. Most likely used for rituals, including the ceremonial washing of clothes, the digging and restoration of the pool will be a first for the site. Remains are buried beneath layers of anaerobic mud and we are expecting excellent preservation. Ultimately, our work should provide a means to reconstruct a more definite chronology for the building phases of the site's earlier periods of occupation.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kirk French, machete in hand, locating the spring that feeds the pool</td></tr>
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